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By Suzanne Labry
Freelance Writer
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Look toward the southeast from the front steps of the
State Capitol and you'll see the office towers, condos,
shops, restaurants, hotels and high rises that make up
the landscape of Austin's modern, bustling downtown. Get
in your car and drive for a mere two-and-a-half miles in
the same direction, however, and you'll pass through a
time warp into a landscape so unlike its skyscrapered
counterpart as to be from another place and time. Deep
in the heart of Austin's east side, Boggy Creek Farm
nestles incongruously on five acres surrounded by a
barrio. As you turn into the long driveway, the harsh,
metallic sounds of the city melt away, replaced by
birdsong and clucking chickens. In stark contrast to the
asphalt, concrete and billboards just blocks away, neat
rows of every kind of green imaginable corrugate the
ground. Flowers are everywhere, crowded with bees and
butterflies. Take a deep breath and exhale as the
traffic-induced stress leaves your body. Pinch yourself:
are you really still smack-dab in the middle of Austin?
On a farm, no less?
Yes, actually. Boggy Creek Farm, one of the few
authentically urban market farms in the entire United
States, has been in operation since 1992. The product of
owners Carol Ann Sayle's and Larry Butler's vision and
hard work, the farm is an unexpected rural oasis in the
midst of a bustling city. How it got that way is a story
marked by the ability to spot a diamond-in-the-rough,
serendipity, creative financing and a whole lot of
heart.
After the economic bust hit Austin in the 1980s and
Larry's real estate brokerage slowed to a crawl, he
began a second business in home remodeling. In the early
'90s, when one of his construction workers asked Larry
to help find a house to buy in east Austin, the first
bit of providence occurred. Larry got out the Multiple
Listing Service directory to begin the search and the
book fell open to a page showing three acres with an old
house for sale. A drive to the site revealed a totally
overgrown property with what turned out to be one of the
oldest surviving homesteads in Austin (circa 1840) in a
terrible state of disrepair - the roof falling in, two
collapsed chimneys and stolen doors. An adjacent two
acres, complete with junked cars and graffiti-sprayed
signs, were in foreclosure, the bottomed-out real estate
market having crushed a developer's dream of cutting
down the huge pecan trees to build 26 duplexes.
Larry found his construction worker a different
property, but he and Carol Ann had their interest piqued
by the two derelict chunks of land. They were already in
the organic vegetable business on a part-time basis,
having purchased 15 acres in 1981 near Gause in Milam
County, 75 miles northeast of Austin, where Larry had
spent his youth and learned about farming. Although
still living in Austin while raising their three
children, Larry and Carol Ann started growing vegetables
at the Gause farm and began selling their produce from a
card-table outside Wiggy's Liquor Store on West 6th
Street, not far from their home. The success of this
early venture had led them to believe they could make a
living as full-time farmers, but they needed more land,
closer to Austin.
"Are you crazy? Why would you even want to look at
this?" asked the real estate agent when Larry and Carol
Ann inquired about the east Austin properties.
Undeterred by the agent's somewhat less than stellar
opinion of his own merchandise, they forged ahead to
purchase both tracts, kissing their life savings goodbye
and maxing out their credit cards in the process. They
moved into the farmhouse on the day of closing in the
winter of 1992. That night, the temperature fell to 34
degrees outside and inside, courtesy of the partial roof
and no back door. A gas leak prevented them from
obtaining any heat. But the soil was deep and fertile
and there was a good well - true gardeners are nothing
if not optimistic.
And so began the journey that has consumed the last 16
years of their lives. Carol Ann describes the next bit
of destiny associated with their purchase: "We named the
farm Boggy Creek Farm, in honor of the no-longer
meandering creek that lies, forever encased in cement,
behind the houses across Lyons Road. As a confirmation
of the name choice, when we took the concrete lid off of
the 150-year old hand-dug well, we discovered, etched in
script on the lid: 'Boggy Creek'."
They spent that first year making the house livable, but
they also planted the salad greens for which they have
become locally famous. From their earlier experience
with their Gause farm produce, they had already
developed a relationship with Whole Foods Market and
other local grocers. As time passed and more crops went
in, they became fixtures at the nascent farmers' markets
in the city. The thriving farmers' market scene of
today's Austin belies its early days. In those times,
growers were few and far between, a solid customer base
had yet to be established; and the term "organic" did
not have its current cachet. (Organic before organic was
cool; both Boggy Creek and the Gause farm have been
USDA-certified from the beginning.) A local chef
discovered their produce and began featuring it on his
menu. Others did the same. Virginia Wood, a food writer
for a popular weekly newspaper, the Austin Chronicle,
raved about their vegetables in print. More publications
followed suit. The word was out: Boggy Creek Farm had
arrived.
When the drudgery of packing and hauling produce to
farmers markets became too much, Carol Ann and Larry
decided to open their own on-site "market day" farm
stand. Now every Wednesday and Saturday morning, a
steady stream of urbanites arrives at Boggy Creek Farm
to purchase fresh produce. From November through April,
cool season offerings include head lettuce, spinach,
various salad and spring greens mixes, escarole,
radicchio, endive, frisee, arugula, cilantro, celery,
celeriac, chervil, French sorrel, carrots, beets,
broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, brussels sprouts,
turnips, kohlrabi, hard squash, garlic, green onions,
spring onions, daikon radish, parsnips, dandelion
greens, parsley, bunched greens (brussels sprouts,
mustard, collards, chard, turnip, kale, beet, etc.),
greenhouse potatoes, mache, leeks, fennel, and
strawberries (April to mid-May). Hot season offerings,
available from May to the end of October, include
slicing tomatoes (May to mid-August), cherry tomatoes,
garlic, potatoes. onions, green beans, long beans,
squash, eggplant, melons (July to August), sweet and hot
peppers, sweet corn (mid-June), cucumbers, basil, French
sorrel, crimson lamb's quarters, figs (June to July),
okra, pears (August to September), and Larry's special
smoke-dried tomatoes (July, until the supply is gone).
There is more going on at Boggy Creek Farm than just
vegetables, of course. Prior to becoming a full-time
vegetable grower, Carol Ann had a flourishing career as
a painter, among the top American artists in terms of
gallery representation, sales, and shows. The painting
she was working on at the time she and Larry purchased
Boggy Creek Farm remains unfinished to this day. She no
longer has time to paint, and in fact, the farm itself
has become her canvas and creative outlet. Her beloved
flowers, interspersed throughout the fields, display a
profusion of color, her artful arrangement of the
produce on the market stand tables is a feast for the
eyes, and her writings about the farm and particularly
the goings-on of her favorite chickens are enjoyed by
devoted readers of her books and Web site. Not afraid to
speak out on matters that concern them, Carol Ann and
Larry encourage those readers to participate in a
letter-writing campaign to government officials to make
the National Animal Identification Plan "voluntary," so
that small farmers won't have to register their
properties and their animals with the USDA.
Education and community service are big parts of Boggy
Creek Farm. For years Carol Ann and Larry have sponsored
fundraisers for non-profit organizations, in particular
a supper benefiting AIDS Services of Austin and an
annual fall event for the Green Corn Project, a group
dedicated to helping citizens in need learn to grow
their own organic produce. An official tour guide,
MeriJayd O'Connor, conducts farm tours for school
children, home schooling groups, garden clubs and other
interested parties. The farm is also the site of a
variety of seminars, including those led by the Texas
Organic Farmers and Gardeners Association aimed at those
who want to start a farm or garden and a popular Chicken
Seminar intended to educate people interested in keeping
backyard poultry.
At Boggy Creek Farm, a discernable sense of nurturing
both plants and people permeates the place. Carol Ann
and Larry have helped one of their eight employees
purchase a home nearby. Both are fluent in Spanish, and
neighbors come to "Don Leon," as they refer to Larry, to
translate documents. Workers are encouraged to help
themselves to all the free produce they want. Children
and young mothers are especially welcomed to enjoy the
fresh air, sunlight and open space of a real farm on
market days. Both Larry and Carol Ann take enormous
satisfaction from providing "good, clean food for
people." Clearly, Boggy Creek Farm feeds not only the
stomach, but the soul and spirit as well, right in the
heart of Austin.
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