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By Skip Richter
Contributing Editor
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Texas
gardeners are fortunate to enjoy a long growing season.
In fact, in most parts of the state we can grow
something in the vegetable garden 12 months out of the
year if we are willing to provide the plants a little
protection.
Our northern neighbors have a short to moderately long
growing season followed by a truly brutal winter when
everything pretty much shuts down in the garden. In most
of Texas we have two short optimum growing seasons,
spring and fall, each followed by two erratic dormant
seasons, summer and winter.
The summer dormant season is one in which a few brave
vegetables can survive and produce, but most others
either shut down or drop in production or quality. The
winter dormant season is relatively mild but is
interrupted by a few serious cold snaps that usually
knock out most of our fall garden vegetables if they are
left unprotected.
The good news is that in most of the state the cold
snaps are few in number and usually not severe enough to
be unmanageable if a gardener is willing to take a few
simple steps to protect a crop for a brief period of
time.
Cold Tolerant Vegetables
It would be helpful to have the exact cold tolerance of
each vegetable so you would know just what minimum
temperature they could withstand and when you would need
to protect them. While a lab experiment might yield such
results, in the real garden world such numbers are
elusive and rather meaningless.
There are several reasons for this. First of all, our
landscapes and gardens are a series of microclimates
making the television weather forecast rather
unreliable. Reflected heat from an adjacent wall, a
hedge or building that deflects cold winds, or any tall
plant or structure that shades the soil affects
temperatures at plant level. Dark soil heats up faster
than light-colored soil. Moist soil holds heat longer
into the evening than dry soil. Mulches decrease a
soil's ability to gather heat during the day for release
over the cold nighttime hours. These are just a few of
many site-related factors affecting the temperature at
plant level in the garden.
Cold-hardy vegetables such as broccoli or spinach that
have been acclimated to the cold are much more able to
withstand a freeze than the same plants that have been
growing in warm temperatures right up to the arrival of
a hard freeze.
Most gardeners are aware of the fact that there are
warm-season vegetables and cool-season vegetables.
Warm-season crops such as green beans and tomatoes can't
take a frost or freeze. Cool-season crops need cooler
conditions to thrive and vary in their ability to take
very cold weather. Most can take a frost and some can
tolerate a fairly hard freeze, even down to the mid-20s
or below.
Really "Cool" Salads
My favorite groups of cool season crops are the leafy
greens. More specifically I'm thinking about the cool
season salad vegetables. A long while back I fell in
love with this diverse group of veggies and here's why.
Prior to my "discovery" of these leafy crops my salads
consisted of taste-challenged chunks of iceberg lettuce
with some cucumber or tomato slices tossed in and
perhaps a broccoli sprig or two; you know, the stuff
offered at many restaurant salad bars. I had to toss in
bacon bits, grated cheese, garlic dusted croutons, and
black olives, and then slather the mix with tangy salad
dressing to provide some flavor. In the process I ended
up with a not-so-healthy salad.
Enter the new kids on the block. I began trying out any
kinds of new greens I could find in my garden. This is
the stuff from upscale food markets and restaurants!
Radicchio, arugula, cress, mache, sorrel, plantain, and
a wide variety of new leafy and Romaine lettuces were
all tested and tasted.
Let me tell you that my salads have never been the same,
and winter has become a much more productive gardening
season for me. When you build a salad from a mix of
these tasty greens much of the seasoning is built right
in. Hot, lemony, nutty, and a host of other unique
flavors are all available in the mix of cool-season
greens.
Tasty Greens
So what are some of the best cool-season greens to try
in your fall and winter garden? Well, here are a few
that I think you should try this season to spice up your
cool season salads.
We should start with lettuce, the foundation of most
salads. I like to use the leaf-type lettuces, choosing a
mixture of types from green to burgundy to speckled to
provide visual variety to a salad. Bibb types and
romaine types are also well worth growing. You can
extend your lettuce harvest by either planting a small
section at a time every two weeks, or by harvesting
individual leaves from the plants and leaving the plants
for additional harvests over the coming weeks.
Spinach provides nutrition in a tasty package. Spinach
salads are great on their own but spinach also works
well mixed with other greens. This cold-hardy vegetable
deserves a place in the cool-season garden. Provide good
drainage, especially if your soil is a heavy clay.
Kale is perhaps the most cold hardy of our garden
veggies. For some reason many years ago collards made it
as the favorite of the south and kale was more embraced
by northern gardeners. I think we need to rethink this.
Kale is not only cold hardy but also about the most
nutritious thing we can grow in the winter garden. It is
great cooked lightly or picked very young and used fresh
in a salad. It kicks a salad into high gear when it
comes to nutrition and health-promoting compounds. 'Red
Russian' and 'Lacinato' (or Dinosaur) Kale are two good
choices.
Radicchio or Italian chicory forms a gnarly white and
burgundy head, and provides a rather bitter, spicy zip
to salads. You would not want to use it alone but it
blends well with a number of other salad ingredients.
Corn salad or mache is easy to grow and forms a rosette
of soft leaves with a buttery texture. The flavor is
mild and rather nutty.
Arugula or roquette grows quickly and provides a tangy,
nutty addition to salads. It is best harvested young
when the leaves are tender and the flavor is mild.
Harvest it too late and the flavor can get too hot and
skunky!
Sorrel brings a tangy, lemony flavor to salads. It is
easy to grow and produces well in the cool season. Like
most of the highly flavored greens it is best used
sparingly, like "seasoning," in salads, soups or other
dishes.
Cress comes in several forms including broadleaf and
curly cress. The broadleaf types tend to be a bit less
pungent, but note that cress packs a peppery hot punch!
Mustard provides a very strong, sharp and pungent kick
to salads. The variety 'Osaka Purple' is especially
colorful and may be used in salads if harvested when the
leaves are still quite small.
Cold Protection
Now some of these great greens will be damaged by
temperatures below freezing. But even those that can
take bitter cold will benefit from milder growing
conditions. Therefore, I set my cool-season salad patch
up with some cold protection in place. The fact that
most of these plants are short-statured makes covering
them easy and cold protection very simple.
The easiest way to protect these vegetables is with a
cover. Rowcover fabric works great and provides about 4
degrees of protection. Allow the sun to warm the soil
all through the day and then at sundown place the cover
over the plants to help hold in the heat. Remove the
cover again the next day as the sun comes out and
temperatures rise above freezing.
Lightweight row covers can be left on for weeks at a
time because they allow plenty of light in and are
permeable enough for air and water to pass through.
Lightweight row covers minimize the work of taking the
cover on and off through the winter, and the light
covers keep temperatures a few degrees warmer, resulting
in more growth during the cold months of winter.
However, the lighter covers don't provide as much cold
protection on a bitter cold night. Heavier rowcover
fabrics can't be left on for more than a few days but
provide more cold protection.
For extra cold protection you can use sheets, tarps, or
blankets to cover plants. These materials are much
heavier and can crush tender greens, especially if
weighted down by rain. You'll need to provide some
support to hold these up over the plants. A simple way
to do this is to place sections of 1/2 inch gray PVC
pipe bent into a low arch or hoop over the row forming a
Quonset type structure. You'll need to weigh down the
edges of the plastic sheeting, tarp or blankets to keep
them from blowing off.
I've also cut livestock panel into 4 to 6 foot lengths
with a bolt cutter and bent them to make a low support
rack for covers. These are easy to set over the row and
provide long-lasting, durable support for heavier
covers.
Forget the idea of running a sprinkler all night to
protect plants. While this can theoretically work if
done right, in a garden setting it really can't be done
right and ends up doing more harm than good. Water
enough to moisten the soil so it can hold heat better,
but no more. Soggy conditions create their own problems.
If you are particularly adventuresome you can really
stretch the productive season by growing your
cool-season greens in a temporary greenhouse structure
or a cold frame. One twist on the cold frame idea that
is fast and easy is to place bales of hay in a
rectangular shape around a planting bed. Then cover the
hay with clear plastic sheeting to create a temporary
cold frame type structure. Then in spring the hay can be
used for mulching around the garden.
Culture Tips
These cool-season greens prefer a moderately moist soil
but do not respond well to soggy wet root-zone
conditions. Because the cool season can be rainy at
times, raised planting beds are helpful, especially in
eastern parts of the state. Mix a half cup of a turf
type fertilizer (3-1-2 or 4-1-2 ratio of nutrients) per
25 square feet of garden bed into the soil prior to
planting.
Barely cover seeds and keep the surface moist to ensure
good germination and seedling establishment. When the
seedlings have 5 true leaves feed the plants again by
carefully working another half cup per 25 square feet of
bed area into the surface half inch or so of soil and
then water it in well.
Watch for hungry caterpillars or other pests that might
decide your garden looks tasty. Sprays containing Bt are
a low-toxicity natural alternative for caterpillars and
work quite well if applied when these pests are still
young.
Don't give up on gardening just because winter is
coming. Try a few of these cool-weather greens and
provide them a little protection on a cold night. You'll
be enjoying fresh, nutritious, tasty salads on through
the winter season and into spring.
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